Can anyone give me advice on how to operate a Geothermal underfloor heating system. I'm freezing!!!?
Dec 10, 2006 by Caroline | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
The only balance between normal underfloor heating and yours is that your heat comes from under the ground and is enhanced through your compressor/ empty not from burning gas or oil so there shouldn't be any difference truly in your house i.e. as other people say so long as the pump is switched on (and not functioning) and your thermostat is set at the right temp. you should have heat and not be frozen. You might have to get on to the installers if you can't find an instruction booklet in the brothel.
teethknees | Dec 10, 2006
DIY hydronic underfloor radiant heating system?
Feb 22, 2008 by oneguyinfl | Posted in Do It Yourself (DIY)
I am researching on if it is thinkable to build a hydronic underfloor heating system from common materials. I was opinion about purchasing a medium size water heater, first pump, and about 1000 feet of tubing, dialect mayhap pvc, or even your higher end common garden hoses as they dont have much insulation to hold the heat in the hose. and it isnt like the lines will be under any serious pressing. I am on a 4' crawlspace now, and I am getting ready to initiate insulation. Any recommendations? the commercial stuff is way over priced if you have researched you can pick up a excessively heater for under 150 and a commercial smaller boiler will run 2000. also the pex hosing runs about 10 dollars a foot, your most precious hose isnt 30 dollars for 50 feet. Any mitigate is appreciated.. Thanks
I was wondering if this sounds like it would employment well. I am trying not to dump 10k into a radiant system. And I have never seen one in individual or the components used. But looking online at a few sites I have seen where qualify heaters were used, and I am not sure if they work rightly for this application, also the hose, or tubing. The pex tubing that is take as given to be used looks alot like a garden hose. I was also philosophy about running PVC as it is cheap too. I would think the hose would be gamester as I can run it between the joists in a snake pattern because it is so flexible. I am not imperfect to waste 1000 either if it isnt going to line correctly. I was hoping to get some answers from people that have endure with this stuff. Will the PVC or a garden hose distribute ardour well? or is there another inexpensive hose/tube that would work healthier other than the PEX? Will the water heater work for a heat provenance on a 1000 feet of tubing? and what size is recommended? How ginormous a pump? TIA
Yes you can do it yourself - but you sine qua non to think it through. Sounds like a "dry" instatement is the way to go for what you plan. In a dry installation the piping is hung below the floor. (A wet installation has the piping embedded in bona fide, which is why you need to go with high end stuff, as failure means jackhammer things).
Rather than try to tell you how to do it other than to say the piping should be at least 1/2" OD, see the web neighbourhood below for more info and links. It's a trade number site.
bdwolfhound | Feb 22, 2008
can u install underfloor heating to a conventional heating system?
Apr 29, 2008 by Leeroy | Posted in Do It Yourself (DIY)
Yes of path you can. You can have a mixed system using a conventional boiler or heartier still a condensing boiler and you can mix radiators or warm air systems with underfloor heating. The dissimilitude is that underfloor heating runs at a lower water temperature, 45 to 50 C. If you use a professional supplier, they will provide the necessary thermostatic controls to serve the underfloor heating at the right temperature, leaving the conventional heating to run at the true temperature. You can install underfloor heating on or between first or ground floor joists or embedded in reliable ground floors (usually for new build). Try the Polypipe web locale to find out what is available. They will supply all the necessary materials added to a design service through your local heating Merchant such as PTS. Another appropriate company is Warmafloor. They have a good web site. I have three such clashing systems being installed at present, one using a geothermal system linked up with an oil fired boiler and solar unreservedly urinate heating, so most combinations can be accomodated. So don,t be put off by people who say you cannot. Best of accident
cliffrees2002 | Apr 29, 2008
how do you clear blocked underfloor heating pipes?
Jan 04, 2007 by castlehawking | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
I have a 1988 fluid (water) underfloor heating system heated from a conventional oil boiler. The biggest system was from a 6 branch manifold where each branch fed through a PARRALEL network of pipes under a sure house floor plan section. The maker likened it to 'radiator' sections under the make fall. I now see that this is totally crap as water (or most things) flows through identify b say of least resistance and therefore, this allows sediment to build up in 'radiator' sections under the parquet. Last time this happened when we changed from a Rayburn unalloyed fuel boiler to the oil boiler, we managed to shoot through most (if not all) the sections by feeding the circuits with some sludge remover bright over some weeks and then refilling with some preventative solution. That was around 6 years ago and it's been OK since then. This last labour has been caried out by ' someone who knows everything' and now the stystem is blocked because he did not excitement the system through and treat with preventative. ????
Yes, I have tried to disconnect each end of a office pipe and individually let the water flow through with the 2 Bar inducement from the system. It trickles through so I guessed that the longer it could keep trickling, then the fernox that I had put in would in the final analysis loosen the scale and it would dissolve into the liquid to be flushed out.
The liable to be though comes from when I tried to pressure wash through a larger 15mm roll and return pipe to an extension. The silt merely backed up against a blockage and the pressure 'blew' the pvc corn-cob (fortunately) just where the pipe entered the particular floor. I obviously do not want to run the risk of blowing any of the joints in the echo system under my main floor and therefore am wondering if anyone knows how to form a vacuum on the other end of the pipe to draw the residue out. I visualize something with a drop cannister/box to drop sediment into and yet be skilful to top up the vacuum as the 2 bars pressure pushes from flow side. Anybody??
By the way, the plumber who has recently moved the boiler is blaming the stainless stiffen inserts in the platic pipes for creating the residuum and says that now they are not being used and plastic ones are being acquainted with instead.
My own research suggests that filth and residuum arises from when any work is done on a system and needs flushing out with the cleanser denouement (as was done in 2000 when my Rayburn was changed for an oil boiler). The system then was bespoke with the protecting solution and all was fine.
How comes my adjoining builders supply has just supplied me with two stainless dagger inserts if my plumbers words are true?
I meditation that corrosion from steel radiators, boiler parts and residuum from plumbing connections created this silt.
He also infers that all these underfloor heating systems installed over the last 20 years will spawn the next 20 years work for plumbers to instal conventional radiators systems again.
Thoughts???
You will want to have it power flushed to get the sediment into suspension and distinct it completely, I assume that it's plastic pipework, connection Fernox for further advice.
http://www.fernox.com/ratio.php?cccpage=technical
jayktee96 | Jan 04, 2007
Can I use underfloor heating systems on the walls of a walk in shower?
Nov 22, 2006 by chas4chat | Posted in Do It Yourself (DIY)
or alternatively is the insulation satisfactory for use on walls with tiles
I lack of faith it, underfloor heating is not designed for vertical surfaces, and since heat rises, in a immure as well as in free air, the upper section will overheat considerably and quite burn out. It MAY be possible if you used a self regulating component such as Raychem manufacture, but I have never seen this done, and would have my doubts about sanctuary especially in the zone 1 area you are talking about, You would have to use a low voltage SELV system in any lawsuit, and there are not many of them.
jayktee96 | Nov 23, 2006