kw rating on Bryant heat pump model #657anx030000aabd?

Has anyone heard of a convention called Granger that furnishes parts & accessories for Bryant Heat Pumps? If not, can you endorse a Company in the area of Scottsville, Kentucky.
yes, grainger is a very salubrious place to try,im not familar with your area but look in yellow pages they should have a particular number if they have a store nearby,i have used grainger many times they have a very chaste supply of specialty parts like the ones you have need of.good luck
I now have a bryant thermostat that says heat pump the wires it has are G, W1, R, O, Y, P, E, F, and C. The new one is a honeywell pro 6000 TH6220D, for the heat pump friend at court it has L, E, AUX, G, O/B, C, Y, R, Rc. I checked the instructions but it does not say anything about wire P. Can anyone rake me what goes where thanks
P is connected
There is no I,
no goal what p is. was it hooked up?/ bryant is carrier stuff. use o, connect r and rc together. dont be acquainted with what l is, dont need aux, g fan, w second stage heat strips,y compressor,c plain if needed,e emergency heat buy newer equipment doesnt privation it or connect to w1 if you want. it turns on heat strips, assemble sure you set back program for heat pump or you have a mess., back program is correcting codes to operate t stat for hp
I am interested in poignant my bryant 12 seer split-system heat pump, a.c. so if i turn off the valve on the calling going to the indoor unit, and turn the system on, it will secure the refrigerant to the outdoor unit. then if i halt the valve on the compressor suction, i can move the unit and collar the system back together? is this correct? it's only accepted about 20' to a new pad away from the window.
Really there is a little more to it than just pumping down. You need guages to squeak what the unit is doing. Close the high side valve let the entity run until the suction gage is around 5 psi.start closing the low side valve,at 2 psi chaff the disconnect and close the suction valve swiftly. Now you can cutt the lines,cap them with tape to prevent anything getting in them. Move the part. Next you would braze the new lines to the condenser connections. Are you continual new lines in the home at the new position ? or extending the old ones. Contents lines are out of the weather running new ones exterior eaven with armorflex could effect your efficency. Here are the issues you have to conduct oneself treat with. The copper lines have to be brazed not soldered so you necessity a hot torch,we use oxy-acetelene or air acetelene,you can also use mapp gass.With brazing rod. Once the connections are made you have to move the system with a vacume pump.Any time you open an A-C system air and moisture inscribe it,and you have to vacume it with a vacume pump to get the contanimates out. If you dont this it will not run capability and acid will form which will will kill your compressor. Now you have to order it using the super heat method as little as 4 oz's can fabricate a 100 dollar difference in your cooling bill. Miserable about the long answer but that is how it is. Some will tell you what you want to hark to but that can hurt you in the long run. You have to be EPA hvac certified to buy r-22 so how you can you impediment the system if you had the equipment ? Sucks don't it. I am in the same sailing-boat on cars,I just paid 800.00 for a be on the same wavelength up and fluid change on my truck. You need an hvac tech. Considerable Luck,hope i have answered your question.
I have a 12prophet 1.5 ton heat pump - this one http://www.ackleysheetmetal.com/bryant/heat_pump/split/00002658.pdf.
I abide in Maryland and set my thermostat at 68F during winter. For the last 2 weeks, I've habituated to about 1200Kw to heat my 100 square foot condo. That seems pretty high...
Does anyone know how many watts this heat pump use? I am dispiriting to figure out cost per watt per hours and so on...
Thanks
I meant 1000 sq. foot condo
I found this shipshape and Bristol fashion formula to calculate electrical consumption for an appliance:
To estimate the cost of operating an appliance, multiply
the wattage of the appliance by the loose number
of hours you operate the appliance (the wattage of an
appliance is as usual listed on the appliance). Next, divide by
1,000 – this will give you the number of kWhs the appliance
uses. Done, multiply the kWh use by your cost per kWh as
shown on your electric bill.
Exempli gratia: A television set is rated at 300 watts and operated
for seven hours a day.
1. Multiply 300 watts by seven hours (300 x 7 = 2,100 watt-hours)
2. Deal out by 1,000 (2,100 ÷ 1,000 = 2.1 kWh)
3. Multiply the kilowatt-hours by the bonus of electricity.
Want to do the same for my heat pump also.
That does seem very record. I've run some numbers and for your heat system alone to use 1200 Kw It would have to have a 5 kw backup heat strip and the heat pump AND the aux heat work the runway would have to be running non stop for those 14 days. To interpret exactly how much your system uses in watts I would need to skilled in the COP (coefficient of performance) This is a more accurate rating of heat pumps. 12 Crystal-gazer can be used and it will be close. Here are constants you will need so you can run the numbers yourself and get an notion.
Seer is Seasonal Energy Efficiency Correspondence. Basically how many btu's are transferred per watt of electricity per hour. (kw is watts x 1000)
There are 3.413 btu's per watt of tenseness used, 3,413 per Kw
There are 12,000 btu's in a ton of cooling.
A 1.5 ton Heat pump will occasion 18,000 btu's of cooling per hour (at 95 degrees casing/75 inside), and 22,500 btu's of heating per hour (at 45 degrees skin/ 70 inside) For a heat pump the produced btu/h will go down as the outside temperature goes down but so will the power use. That is why you necessity backup heat.
If you have any other questions feel free to email me from my diagram.
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