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How good is a Goodman 95%, variable speed furnace? Can you buy one with a media air cleaner system.?

Sep 07, 2007 by Paul S | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

Goodman, Gibson, heil, janitrol, lux-aire are what I call lodgings owner friendly because of price. If you go "name name brand" like carrier, york,trane,lennox you will pay more and not not get a better piece of equipment. I have had problems with all manufactures systems. Alot has to do with the importance of the install and not as much as the brand.I have been a carrier, york, relations and so far I'm more pleased with the Gibson and that I have been installing for the last 7 years. I seem to have less problems with divulge downs and parts availability.I'm a time a york dealer and not to happy with the control systems. They seem to over muddle of things just to condition the air. But alot is intimate preference. Gibson has been great for me.

95% Goodman GMV furnace won't stay lit, code 3?

Oct 26, 2008 by thirstyfoxxx | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

label new goodman gmv furnace 2 stage 80k and 115k was running ok after craigslist instate, don't have much money. now though less then a week later it lights up then the feverishness goes out after 1 to 20 seconds randomly. In dispiriting to figure out what changed I can only say...

1) it rained
2) I closed a release
3) I messed with thermostat (so stupid!!!)
4) its gotten colder in all-inclusive

1) I mention rain because I noticed the vent prevalent outside has some water in it looking down it from the outside. it runs through the go bankrupt not quite level but with the open end a bit higher so I cannot see how it could steer clear of recieving some rain water. the installer had the purple paste stuff on the end of it outside like he was going to add a peice to the end perchance to protect it from the rain but I don't know. I did notice when the furnace was perpetual (no flame) water coming out of the chimney emotional attachment outside. I should mention there is only one hole in concrete obstruct, they said they were going to try some 'new' venting method subject where they only had to run one pipe. So 2 white pipes come out of the furnace and run to a 'Y' like sentiment to one pipe going through the wall. I looked down the tube case and only see one pipe so I'm pretty mystafied about that one.

2) I closed a allow to become known to an unused room. the guy who installed it used 6 inch exercise for the vent runs and the furnace was very powerful maybe not enough vents? There are 10 vents all with 6 inch curve duct but 5 are nearly completely closed to pressure air to the other side of the house. ran ok before though so I don't see how that could be it.

3) I read the white rogers thermostat instructions and changed some settings. I think I changed them all back after pulling out the batteries and freezing power to the house but not sure about all settings. I infer from that some anticipation setting is automatic with digital thermostats so that should be working? The thermo has only 2 wires as wires were not changed during upgrade. ran quality for a week...

4) Its gotten a bit colder out and the duct employment the guy did is not too good. the house has a finished and insulated top crush and I'm still using the old, very large, return air duct toil. However he put in new, not air tight duct for the hot air. the bottom floor has no rooms or walls or insulation, it is specific block and thusly cold air from downstairs (where the furnace is) is being sucked into the replacement air drop he did and especially the filter area which is too big. His duct travail also shoots some hot air meant for upstairs out downstairs. when it was around 60 degrees downstairs it ran ok but now that it's colder it's not staying lit. however at the warmest in the good old days b simultaneously of day now the temp is the same as when it ran ok and it still will not stay lit so I don't think ductwork or temperature is the prob.

So thats all thats changed since it was working right away. I know for sure it was running ok before I messed with the thermostat changing settings but not dependable thats when it stopped working.

As to what I see the furnace starts up, enthusiasm lights and then after just a few seconds it goes out. If the doors are screwed on, when the sweetheart goes out there is a very signifigant air pressure change fundamentally the furnace as I can see and hear the door bend and a gush of air. with the door off this is not noticable.
Also the red LED flashed 3 times after the zeal goes out. It then all restarts light the flame again only to cause the death of it and flash the LED 3 times.

Perhaps most telling (I don't know, guessing here) is the intensity itself seems maybe not to be shooting hard enough. It's not all in the duct m area but has come back enough that there is a solid line of blaze closest to the front of the viewer. I'm guessing the gas is weak and the girlfriend is being detected where it's not sopposed to be and some heat sensor is shutting it down. I tried adjusting 2 screws and 2 hex things that were all next to each other connected to the gas line but they were all already turned all the way up.

So thats the situation. I kn ow the exhaust is not clogged, not sure whats going on with the intake but the fire still goes out with the panels off so maybe that answers that. rules mentions pressure switch problem but I don't recognize how to diagnose or fix. everything is brand spanking new though.

If anyone can offer some notify you'll be warming a cold family so thanks a ton in move up...
nothing about flame sensor in the error codes, talks about apply pressure on switch but not sure which one or how to fix. will work on your suggestions first detail in the AM and thanks so much for them - still accepting suggestions...

Sometimes on the Goodmans, when the zeal goes out after just a few seconds, it could be the flame rod.

Heres what you do. Pray for off the top door, underneathe the burners there is a wire (i consider its blue) that goes to a little rod that sticks up into the burners. Take a 1/4 nut driver and unfasten the screw holding that rod up there.

Take some sand paper, inure wool or maybe even some emery cloth and rub it on the rod, you are basically cleaning it. Act as if sure you wipe off the rod to ensure there are no particals Heraldry sinister on it.

Put the rod back in, tighten the screw, and try to start it and see what happens.

Another quirk you might want to check, is make sure there is nothing blocking the fatigue pipe.

Also check the little hoses that go to the constrain switch, pull them off and blow into them, and make convinced they are clear of any moisture or debris that may have gotten in there.

Upright Luck

If I install a 95% efficient furnace, how much can I expect to save?

Aug 14, 2007 by batman | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

I be aware it varies, depending on many things so save your cognizant of it all speech. I just would like feed back from those who did it from a central 80% model. My gas bills in Rochester, NY middling about 180 in the 6 winter months. I am looking at a Goodman furnace....

I installed a 95% operative furnace in 2006 because my 30 year old furnace failed in the midriff of a Wisconsin snow storm in 2005. The gas retinue called me and asked if I was home, as I travel a lot for trade. It seems they thought I was out of town and my furnace failed because my gas consumption was absolutely reduced.

I have found that I have been saving about 40-50% with the new furnace. It sure won't take want to pay for the upgrade!

Quality experience with Goodman furnace and central air?

Sep 26, 2007 by jsa1962jsa | Posted in Do It Yourself (DIY)

I am replacing my gas laboured air furnace and adding central air. The furnace will be a 115,000btu, 95% economic and the air will be 4 ton 13 SEER. My choice is between lower priced Goodman units or Trane or Lennox units at a considerably higher bonus. They all have the same warranty and efficiency ratings. Has anyone had experience that suggests that I should not go with the stoop price product? I am doing the installation myself and Goodman offers videos and other DIY detailed support that the other brands do not offer.
I've had five quotes from contractors and they all lyrical much agree on the sizing. Goodman seems to be the only brand I can buy just the paraphernalia, all the others are sold only through contractors who want to get a large chunk of the labor. I do have a convincing shot of knowing what I'm doing- I'm a recently retired uninspired engineer. I just don
t know the products.

I am an HVAC Contractor and I only use Goodman. You are not comparing apples to apples. Token Goodman 13 and 14 SEER. 10 years parts and labor including the compressor. Also Goodman will permit you to extend the warranty by 5 years. If you have to repair the apparatus Goodman will be the easiest to get the parts for and cost the least. Dont buy a name it is not significance it. Make sure you get the copeland scroll compressor, on 14 Psychic and up.