Home

Adding inhibitor to modern combi central heating system?

Sep 24, 2007 by Graeme P | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

I've recently drained and removed most of my radiators for decorating.
I will brusquely have them reinstalled and will need to re-fill system.
My hot water / central heating is powered by a Baxi combi boiler (80e or 105e I imagine, 4 years old, in spare bedroom cupboard), below which is a tap which can be acclimated to to add water to the system directly (to re-pressurise, etc).
The system had Sentinel X100 inhibitor – unmistakably most now dranied out - and I want to add some new inhibitor before I start using the system this winter. As I can add weaken using this tap below the boiler, will my system actually use a header / spread tank in the loft? (would have expected to add inhibitor via this tank, with system approx half re-filled).
If it won't have a (connected) tank, how can I get the inhibitor into my system?
Would lodge to know how do this job myself, unless genuinely requires competent plumber.

You have more have a funny feeling that of protecting your system than some 'pro's' do, there are a yoke of ways to do this, you can buy a concentrate, this is installed by using a silicone gun, take out the air bleed increase and force it in as you would with silicone (there is an adaptor to fit the screw filament, comes with the concentrate) but take the blank out of the other side too, or the pressure won't allocate you to inject the stuff in. The other way, is either take out both vent and blank on a towel warmer if you have one, and flood the chemical in, if it has to be a radiator, with the smallest radiator, employ block off the valves (rad disconnected from pipework), take out the vent and unmixed, pour the chemical in, refit the vent and bare, re-fit radiator, leave valves off, fill remainder of system (without bleeding rads) to 1 bar, desert for half hour to be sure pressure doesn't descend, if ok, open the valves with the chemical in, then fill system from bottom up. I am off work due to an op, so e-correspondence if you get stuck!

Is it worth adding inhibitor to my 10 year old central heating system?

Sep 03, 2008 by alecwithac | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

I've recently moved into a 10 year old accommodate, which from what I can tell did not have inhibitor added to the central heating system when it was installed. the system is going to be drained at bottom. Is it worth added inhibitor to the system now , or is the damage already done?
In other words, is it quality it?

how long do you leave a central heating inhibitor in the system for, or do you flush it out after a while.?

Oct 17, 2008 by andy c | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

AM NEEDING A PLUMBERS Resist.

I have put a cenatral heating cleaner in to the system and will leave it for about three weeks. When i discard the cleaner I will flush the central heating about two or three time, and then fill the system and add an Inhibitor. How long do I give up the inhibitor for? Do I leave it in for a set time, or drop it and fill it with fresh heavy water! Or just leave it in the system!

Thanks for you help

Present the instructions on the bottle, they're really clear as to how much you desideratum to use and will always tell you that the inhibitor remains in the system permanently.

Think about it. If you euphoria the inhibitor out then it's not going to be able to inhibit corrosion is it?

The fiasco will also tell you how often you need to add more inhibitor and normally comes with a mark which you attach to the header tank to act as a reminder.

how does one put in an inhibitor into a combi boiler central heating system?

Feb 16, 2008 by swin | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

There's several ways you can do it, if you've bought the inhibitor in the gumption then you can:

Drain one radiator (ideally the smallest) purge the radiator, leave the valves shut and wipe the 1/2" cap from the top. Add the inhibitor through the 1/2" puncture then do the cap back up and reconnect the radiator.

Drain half of the heating system open-handedly, remove a radiator from upstairs and pour the inhibitor down one of the pipes that connects to the radiator valves.

Alternatively you can buy a gala concentrated inhibitor which comes in a tube and requires the use of a silicon gun to add to the system, this is a lot easier to use on a sealed heating system (combi):

Debilitate the water out of one radiator and leave it connected; delete the 1/2" cap from the top of the radiator, insert you inhibitor into your silicon gun and put the shallow nozzle from the inhibitor tube into the 1/2" discrepancy, squeeze all the inhibitor out into the radiator. Do the cap back up and refill the radiator. This is the easiest way of doing it, you can buy the concentrated inhibitor from all plumbers merchants.

How do I drain and flush out a central heating system?

Feb 01, 2008 by MICHAEL S | Posted in Do It Yourself (DIY)

I recently replaced a radiator in a bathroon that was starting to rust along its bottom restless. No problem with removing and fitting the radiator, all is back working ok. My enquiry is; the water drained out from the removed radiator was sombre. Is this normal? Is this caused by the rust inhibitor? Should I be draining down the whole system and flushing it through and then refilling with decontaminate water and rust inhibitor? if so, how is it done?

The threatening is magentite - iron crystals, and you need to take off as much as you can haaving it whooshing round the system can damage items like the galvanize. Check whether you pipework has drainage points (many don't) - you can in the main introduce an inhibitor via the tank if it has one, otherwise it is a little bit more complicated.

You can can tap via one of the lowest radiator valves (fit a length of hosepipe with a 3/4 " string to take the water outside, and antoher to put the water in). As refillling is done by the boiler, you can start inhibitor via the valve, after flushing the system through.

My own view is that if it is a modern system and is run without air in it there should be no oxidation, ie rusting, but realise that others may dissent, as it relies on keeping all the radiators bled (ie without air).