my central heating supplies me with hot radiators but the hot water to the taps has stopped.?

when the trade on the boiler is in the summer/hot water only mode the boiler has stopped flaring up,but when its in the winter/hot not make sense/ch mode the boiler flares up and the ch rads fervidness up but still no hot water on demand.its a combi boiler.cheers john


This is most qualified to be a diverter valve problem, depending on the boiler variety this can be expensive best try british gas all in price presentation.

Are there any advantages/disadvantages to having hot water and central heating fitted at the same time?

Recently our immersion heater replete up. Just stopped working. Our shower runs off a come heating supply, and we use kettle for washing pots, so we can subsist without it, but it's obviously not an ideal situation.

This morning we had our intense air heating system condemned.

We will obviously have to get them both replaced but I was wondering what the pros and cons were (if any) to getting them both done at the same things vs separately.

Any other advice I'd be grateful for. I'm a faultless novice when it comes to this sort of thing.

(Don't discern if this makes any difference, but I'm in the UK)


A fervid air heating unit and an immersion water heater are two seperate systems. Replacing the immersion heater should be altogether a quick and fairly cheap job, unless the intractable is something more serious. It could be a blown thermostat - that's even quicker and cheaper, or it could allude to a hot water cylinder - bigger job, higher bring in.
You could replace both at the same time by fitting a combi boiler system, assuming you have gas to hand. Its a big job since presumably you will need a full radiator system.
You really essential someone to take a careful look and give you advice - better still ask 2 or 3 heating system specialists to select sure you get competitive prices.

Central Heating?

We have 1 promptly water tank that supplies the hot water cylinder. We had to renew the cylinder and now we dont have any water in the radiators, it wont fill. We have an circumambient vented cylinder with a back boiler.
The old cylinder is over 15 years old - would it have had a non gain valve in it and taken water from within the cylinder itself?
We cant digit out how the water fills into the central heating system.
Just found out that we have bought (on the suggestion of our local plumbing shop) a coiled cylinder & our old one was a primatic cylinder.


It sounds like there is a valve that needs to be turned back on. You might shortage to call a plumber to locate it. One service call can give you all the information to take misery of it yourself.

Any good ways for purging air from the hot / cold water supply automatically (not central heating)?

The system is importance-fed. Only the kitchen has a direct connection to mains freezing water - other rooms are fed from a tank. I have access to most of the pipework, so I can add a standpipe if needs be, but I privation to avoid that if possible.

I've been fiddling about with the taps to quicken the air out, but it's not very satisfactory (the problem comes back after a span of days/weeks). I can't design out where is the air coming in. I don't think there are any sections of corn-cob that are below ambient pressure - any explanation would be appreciated.
Oh yeah. It's an later-floor maisonette (one floor) and the header tank is in the attic, above the boiler.


The natural way that a plumber would use is to pull out washing machine. Find off isolation valves, connect the flexible unheated to the "hot" open both valves and the peasant of mains water will push out any air in the system. Don'y omit to turn on hot taps one at a time to ensure achievement. THIS DOES WORK

Is it safe to leave Gas Central Heating "on", heating set low, for two weeks and to turn the water supply off.

I am right to go on holiday, I live in the UK [Lancashire] and wish to leave of absence the Central Heating "on" for frost protection.However I about it best to turn the water supply "off" at the conduit stoptap to avoid the possibility of leaks.


Most contemporary combi boilers have an inbuilt frost screen, if you have thermostats on radiators they also will have frost protection, if it is an older system, this should have a frost stat, turning the weaken off at the mains is a good idea, a combi system has to be filled every so often, so if you set the pressure before you go, should be ok, if it is a regular boiler, there will be sufficient not ring true in the f and e tank to cope while you are away, run the heating for an hour a day decent to keep the fabric of the building warm, or it will take hours to desire warm when you get back.

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