My central air conditioner died at the start of triple digit temperatures. Should I repair or replace?
Jun 23, 2008 by Michelleh | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
My central air conditioner is 20 years old, although I replaced a $600 part about 3 years ago. Is it term to replace the entire unit and if so, what brands are superb in terms of reliability and "energy personage" efficiency? Should I use single room units rather than? I would be happy without having the whole house cool, if that would be more dash efficient. I live in Pasadena, southern California, if that makes a change.
Yup, I would concede it`s a perfect time to get a TRANE brand air condo module. They are very reliable and the newer ones are very power efficacious.
If you get the same size unit, all you need to do is replace the shell unit. You can buy one at your local heating shop and fix in place it yourself, but for warranty work I would have them install it and add the freon to it, or what they call charging it.
Hnst1 | Jun 24, 2008
How do I get my central air conditioner compressor to kick on?
Sep 19, 2008 by not_a_hint | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
I noticed that my central air conditioner in my race was blowing air but not blowing cold air. I went facing and noticed that my outdoor air conditioner condenser fan was running seemly but the compressor wasn't making any noise. Any suggestions?
I looked at the flow box and there are two fuses...is one for the compressor and one for the fan on the condenser...cause like I said, the fan on the condenser does operate b depend on on.
Could be low on freon and the evaporator helix is froze up. Are you getting or do you know where to look to see if any condensation is coming from the Nautical fake? Turn unit off and after a while you should see some sign of water dripping (from the ice melting on the enwrap) If this is the case you probably have a leak somewhere in the system. leak needs put and freon added to system.
dodger | Sep 20, 2008
Does central air conditioner work less efficiently when it's hot outside?
Jul 23, 2006 by jveryrad | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
I have a new central air conditioner. Normally, it cools down the accommodate 5 min per degree, so it takes around 25 min to lower the temperature from 80 to 75 degrees upstairs. I have 2 floors. Today, I went out to run errands and didn't get back until 1pm, when it became 91 degrees casing and 85 degrees inside. I kept the AC on for several hours, and it didn't audacious the house below 78 degrees until 9pm.
Does the AC occupation less effectively when it's really hot outside, and the coils don't control off very fast in 90 degree heat? Is that why it didn't go below 78 degrees in quod till night time?
Is there such as thing as a wonderful-hot day when even a 3.5 ton AC gets overwhelmed? Is there any point to "staying before" by turning the AC on at 11am if we think a hot one is coming in lay out to start cooling earlier before the house gets deep down hot?
Well it seems the only one who had a pointer about this question was Neil.
It isn't necessarily harder to uncordial your house when it's hotter outside unless you have let your shelter get very hot and humid inside. Most a/c units are designed to controlled the house 15 degrees cooler than open-air temp and you should never set the thermostat more than 20 degrees cooler than open-air temperature or risk damaging the unit. At best the air coming out of your registers will be 18 to 22 degrees cooler than the temperature in the live. It's always a good idea to draw the shades whenever tenable to avoid direct sunlight heating your rest-home during the day... this will help the a/c catch up and also keep your electric bills cut. As you mentioned, it is best to close the windows and express on the unit early in the day if you know it will be a hot day. This will actually fetch you less in energy and prevent the days heat and humidity from edifice up just to be removed later. Keep basement and upstairs doors closed if admissible, to keep the cool air where you want it. The upstairs does not like it have to be warmer than the first floor if the house was ducted nicely and the system balanced. Use ceiling fans on low speed to succour move the air... you will find that with the air moving you can set your thermostat a couple degrees higher and still withstand comfortable. Heat does not rise... hot air rises as it is lighter than chill air. Heat in itself will always seek cold to find an equalibrium.
A systems tonage has nothing to do with airflow but is the cooling genius of the unit. This term goes back to the days when ice was the only fountain-head of refrigeration. 1 ton of ice can absorb 288,000 btu's of waken... divide that by 24 hours in a day which equals 12,000 btu's. Therefore a 1 ton system is rated at 12,000 btu's per hour. Your system is a 3.5 ton, so it can absorb 42,000 btu's per hour.
If you value the system isn't cooling as it once was, first check your filter to be tried it is clean. Change it if necessary. If the system still seems off to you, then call a technician to be aware of up your system.
I hope this helped you.
Tsunami | Jul 23, 2006
What temperature should my central air conditioner be putting out of my vents?
Jun 12, 2007 by hokiedokie24 | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
My central air conditioner is a Trane XE1000. During these hot days the temps sometimes run mid 80's to low 90's facing. My unit is almost running constantly and I have it set at 72 degrees. What should the temperature be coming out of the ducts at the shock level. I took a laser temperature and it was contest in the mid to high 50s but yet the unit is running like eager and in my opinion not cooling the house like it should. Last week when it was in the low 90's the concern was a balmy 77 degrees inside only getting to the set 72 later that unceasingly. Is this normal or should I have it checked??
This sounds about put. What you have is a 20 degree temperature drop that you are pushing your AC to contribute. Because of the higher temps and the lower setting on your T-stat, it will be prolonged to run until the temperature is met. With opening doors or exposed windows, this will be intensely to do when the sun is out. With cooler temps at night time, the part "catches up" to your thermostat.
If you haven't had continuation on it yearly, I would suggest getting it cleaned by a certified tech. Your evaporator Nautical fake could be dirty, causing less cool air to be blown into your vents.
Saucy | Jun 12, 2007
How much clearance is needed over a central air conditioner?
May 17, 2008 by trater04 | Posted in Other - Home & Garden
I recently built a deck and liberal about 12 inches of clearance over the vertical fan on my central air conditioner. Have I made a misstep and increased the chances that the air condition will not run properly. Any suggestions, beyond effective the unit, that I can do to make sure the unit still runs like it should.
How did you design on servicing the unit with it covered up that way? By the way, the unit will not run efficiently with out considerable airflow so you will probably need to cut the boards over it away to consideration it to dissipate heat. Put some rails around it with bench seats on the deck and deliver it a feature.
dartiator63 | May 17, 2008
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Bradley said changes will not include bringing central air conditioning to the residence halls, which now have window units. “As soon as you say central air, you're talking a $20 million project,” he said, adding that the residence halls would also